Piss Alley Omoide Yokocho Alley, Shinjuku, Tokyo

A narrow Japanese alleyway at night decorated with cherry blossoms and illuminated lanterns.
A narrow Japanese alleyway at night decorated with cherry blossoms and illuminated lanterns.

Omoide Yokocho, near Shinjuku Station's west exit, is a cluster of narrow alleys lined with tiny yakitori stalls and noodle counters, many with only a handful of seats. The name translates to "Memory Lane," though the district was long nicknamed Shonben Yokocho, or "Piss Alley," a reference to its postwar black-market origins. Most of the alley dates to the years right after World War II, when unlicensed food stalls sprang up around the station to serve workers and returning soldiers. A fire in 1999 destroyed part of the district, and later redevelopment pressure threatened the rest, but many of the original shopkeepers rebuilt on the same footprints. Paper lanterns strung along the passageways mark individual stalls, some family-run for three generations.

Photo taken in March 2023.

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