Ikkakuya Yakitori Stall, Omoide Yokocho, Shinjuku

Omoide Yokocho sits just west of Shinjuku Station, tucked beneath the rail tracks in a lattice of alleys barely wide enough for two people to pass. The lane took shape in the black-market years after World War II and later earned the nickname "Shomben Yokocho," or Piss Alley, for its rough-and-ready postwar reputation. A fire in 1999 destroyed much of the block, and the alley was rebuilt while keeping its original scale and layout. Today it holds roughly sixty tiny stalls, many seating fewer than ten people, serving yakitori, motsuyaki, and other grilled skewers to office workers and travelers alike. Ikkakuya, marked here by its paper lanterns, is one of the counter-style shops that keep the alley's postwar character intact.