Yakitori Alley, Omoide Yokocho, Shinjuku

Omoide Yokocho runs in a narrow strip near Shinjuku Station's west exit, its lanes barely wide enough for two people to pass. The name translates to "Memory Lane," though longtime regulars still call it by its older, cruder nickname referencing the black-market yakitori stalls that first opened here after World War II. Fewer than a hundred tiny bars and grills operate along these alleys today, most seating no more than six to eight customers at a counter. A fire in 1999 destroyed a section of the district, but owners rebuilt to the same footprint and scale rather than modernize. Paper lanterns marked with shop names hang low over the walkway, a fixture of the alley since its postwar start.

Photo taken in March 2023.